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The Evolution of Black Designers: Pioneers in American Fashion

Shirley Jones Luke
4 min readDec 7, 2023

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Designers of Color Changing the Landscape of Fashion

The history of American fashion is a rich tapestry woven with the threads of diverse cultural influences, creativity, and individuality. While the narrative often spotlights iconic designers from mainstream backgrounds, the contributions of Black designers have been equally significant, shaping the fashion landscape and challenging societal norms. This essay aims to explore the history of Black designers in American fashion, tracing their evolution from the early 20th century to the present day.

Early Influences and Trailblazers

The early 20th century marked the emergence of Black designers who, despite facing systemic racism, began making their mark in the world of fashion. One of the earliest trailblazers was Ann Lowe, an African-American designer who gained prominence in the 1920s. Despite her talents, Lowe faced racial discrimination, exemplified by her exclusion from credit for designing Jacqueline Kennedy’s wedding dress in 1953.

The mid-20th century witnessed the rise of Arthur McGee, often regarded as the first African American to open a couture salon. In 1957, McGee’s salon, “Arthur McGee & Sons,” opened its doors in Harlem, challenging the prevailing racial barriers in the fashion industry. His work laid the foundation for future generations of Black designers, proving that talent knows no racial boundaries.

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Shirley Jones Luke
Shirley Jones Luke

Written by Shirley Jones Luke

Shirley is a writer. Ms. Luke enjoys books, fashion and travel. She is working on her second poetry manuscript, a collection of essays, and a fiction novel.

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